Le Coucou, situated on the first floor of Soho’s 11 Howard Hotel, is the first stateside venture of Chicago-born chef Daniel Rose, who also owns the acclaimed Paris restaurants Spring and La Bourse et La Vie. With a penchant for seasonal cooking and Lyonnais classics, Rose imports a Grande Cuisine grandeur to the neighborhood, but adds just enough sleekness to make Le Coucou mesh with the rakish verve of Lafayette Street. Dover sole, for example, is served with grapes and champignons, while Catalan-style pigeon comes with almonds, red peppers, and olives. The high-ceilinged interior, by the design firm Roman and Williams, has a pared-back opulence, featuring grayish brick walls, circular pendant lights in a modern floral motif, and a sea of white tablecloths. Le Coucou serves breakfast, too (try the sliced ribeye over eggs), and is open for weekend lunch. Top it off with the house’s signature cocktail of pear cider, lemon, and bitters.
Images by Le Coucou